Etched Tile Coasters

So, this is a pretty simple project.  You can do pretty much any design you want, as long as your stencil completely seals to the tile.  I used the Star Trek stencils I made for the post about "contact paper" stencils a couple of posts back.  You can also buy "peel and stick" stencils at craft stores like Michael's that are intended to be used for things like glass etching cream, which is what we'll be using here.  


You'll need dark colored ceramic tiles (available at Home Depot type stores), glass etching cream (available at Michael's type stores), appropriate stencils, cork sheeting, strong bonding glue, scissors, and a plastic spreader (not metal or glass) for the cream (I used a plastic, disposable knife).  


This is shouldn't be too difficult or time consuming.  The longest part for me was actually finishing the stencils, as I couldn't cut the inside parts out until I was ready to use them.


First, lay out your stencil on the tile before peeling the backing off, to get an idea of placement.  You don't want to be lifting and replacing it, getting fingerprints all over the adhesive, weakening the seal, etc.  Once you like how it'll look, peel the back, stick it on in the appropriate location, and press.  You'll want to do an extra rub down around the edges where we'll be placing the cream.  It's very easy for it to seep under the edge and ruin the look of the image.


Next, using your plastic knife/spreader, slather the cream liberally onto the stencil.  Take care not to get any on any area of the tile where you don't intend.  It'll looked chipped or dirty and you can't fix it once it's there!  The packaging for the cream says wait 60 seconds, but the bottle itself adds that if you're using "custom made stencils" to actually wait 5 minutes to give the cream time to react.  


Once you're satisfied that it's done it's job, go to the sink and rinse that stuff off.  You'll have to get your fingers on there and gently rub off the residual cream that wants to stay there.  Don't worry, it won't burn you since you're rinsing it off as you go.  However, all of the cream must be off before continuing.  Then, dry the whole thing off with a paper towel or dry, lint-free cloth.

Peel off the stencils.  Wipe off any residual stencil adhesive with a paper towel or dry, lint-free cloth.

Take your cork sheet and lay it over the back of the tile.  Mark with a pen or pencil the size needed to cover the back.  It doesn't need to go to the edge.  These, and most ceramic tiles, should have backs that have a raised square with raised groovy lines in it.  My cork covered just that square, which left about half a centimeter on all edges uncorked.  Cut out the square of cork.
 

This cork had one side that was smoother than the other.  Glue around the edges of the rougher side and then a design in the middle.  An "X" should suffice.  The glue I used is kinda like a mix between superglue and white craft glue.  I'm sure a strong craft glue might work.  Cork sheeting, not only is quite porous by nature, but also wants to roll back up into its tube - so the glue you use should be able to work against that dilemma.  Press the glued cork to the center back of the tile.  Make sure there are no tears, bubbles, glue oozing out the sides, etc.  Turn them over and allow the weight of the tile to press the cork flat while the glue dries.


Ta-da! Finished coasters.  The cool thing about this type of coaster is that the etched design will absorb water condensation.  So, if it's a design that covers a large amount of the tile, there will be little or no rings!